Scotland. Beware of the Black Bull’s Head at Dinner and Other Tales of Edinburgh Castle
My family and I visited Scotland and the historic Edinburgh Castle during a longer visit to the United Kingdom in 2006. Positioned on the south shore of the Firth of Forth in southeastern Scotland, Edinburgh has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century. Human occupation of the area dates back to Mesolithic (8500 BC). Centuries later Celtic tribes are recorded to have been in the region when Roman armies arrived. Scottish King David I established the Royal burgh (city) in the 12th century. Believed to have been located on the site of present-day Edinburgh Castle, the first fortification built there was called Din Eidyn. The city fell under English control at various times including from 1291 to 1314 and from 1333 to 1341. In 1544, the English burned Edinburgh. Peace finally came in 1603 when Scottish King James VI ascended the English throne and united England and Scotland in the Union of Crowns that eventually led to the formation of Great Britain in 1707.
My family and I made the decision to rent a car in London and then drive to our Airbnb near Edinburgh. Unfortunately, we greatly underestimated London traffic and the time it would take to drive 660 kilometers north. We were fortunate that the host of our Airbnb was gracious, despite our 1:00am arrival. With a late start the next morning we drove into the city. Our first stop was Edinburgh Castle which was constructed on an extinct volcanic plug formed 380 million years ago that rises 130 meters above sea level. The castle was built during the reign of King Malcolm III of Alba (1058-1093) and continued to serve as the residence of Scottish kings until the 17th century. Later, it became a military garrison and a fabrication and storage site for weapons. Following the Battle of Alnwick in 1174, the castle was surrendered to the English. Beginning with the 14th century Wars of Scottish Independence, the castle was besieged 26 times and during the Lang Siege, many of its medieval buildings were destroyed by artillery fire.
One of the castle’s most brutal stories took place in 1440 when the sixteen-year-old Earl of Douglas (William Douglas) and his brother were summoned to the castle for dinner with King James II. Part-way through the meal, a black bull’s head was placed on the table in front of William, and he was subsequently dragged out of the castle, subjected to a mock trial, and beheaded. The “Black Dinner” became the inspiration for the 2013 “Red Wedding” episode in the TV series “Game of Thrones.” The castle was also used as a prison during the Seven Years War (1756-1763), the American War of Independence (1775-1783), and the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815).
After touring the castle, we descended the “Royal Mile,” a series of streets that pass through Old Town and terminate at the Palace of Holyrood House. The succession of street segments includes Abbey Strand, the Canongate, High Street, the Lawnmarket, and Castlehill. The Royal Mile was the site of the 1558 wedding of Mary Queen of Scots and Francis II of France. From the castle, our route passed the Scottish War Memorial, National Library of Scotland, St. Giles Cathedral, and the Royal Mile Primary School. First used in 1678, Holyrood House is the official residence of the monarch of Scotland, King Charles III, who visits once a year.
Before returning to our Airbnb, we purchased tickets to tour the HMS Britannia, a former royal yacht used by the British Monarchy from 1954-1997. During its service, Britannia sailed more than a million miles and to 600 ports in 130 countries. Displacing more than five million kilograms, the 126-meter-long ship was powered by twin steam turbines. Carrying up to 250 passengers, its crew of 271 included 21 officers. Today, Britannia is permanently berthed at Edinburgh’s Ocean Terminal.
On our third day we drove north. Stopping in Queensferry, we could see a small island and castle under a modern bridge. Inchgarvie is an uninhabited island within the Firth of Forth. Positioned at the midway point between Queensferry and Jamestown to the north, the island’s rocky landscape became the foundation for caissons that support the Forth Bridge. The fortification on Inchgarvie Island was built by Scottish King James IV in 1513 as a strong tower to protect the river and discourage attacks by Danish forces. Captured by English commander Richard Brooke, the stronghold was partially destroyed in 1544. Later, the fortification was rebuilt to counter perceived threats posed by the American naval commander John Paul Jones.
